PALAIS ROYALE: NEIGHBORHOOD GUIDE
Renegades, Royals and Revolutionaries
This area of Paris is one of my favorites. Most tourists do not immediately think of Palais Royale except perhaps as a lovely place to picnic or rest on the lovely benches or chairs next to “le Basin”. The Palais Royale Park became a public space after being exclusive to Cardinals and Royalty. Later, the Revolutionaries and Rogues used it as a meeting place during the French Revolution. The park then became a notorious place for pick-pockets, prostitutes and thieves until the early 19th century. The Palais Royale square (after you emerge from the METRO via LINE I) offers people watching in the well placed cafes. Take this walk (in the video) and continue to the end of the park and exit through the park gates. As you step through be aware this park is not open all night closing at a certain hour. Here, the mysteries of the Palais Royale neighborhood begin as you enter this warren of side streets. HISTORY LINK here for a deeper dig HERE with all the colorful history of this park and immediate streets.
Secrets of the 2nd Arrondissement - The Palais Royale
I was able to dig deeper into this little area just beyond the Palais Royale Park around the corner from the Place de La Victoire. I lived in the neighborhood for about 3 weeks. This area is both very Chic and ‘Royale’ but also very artistic in true Parisian BOHO LUXE style. Why? This section of Paris also borders on the fashion district and the market area that was once LES HALLES and Rue Monterguile. Combined with the pedigree of the Palais Royale (with its hidden luxurious restaurants and cafes) there is also many neighborhood cafes. Plus, the famous Galerie Vivienne is a centerpieces of the area as well. Did I mention that there is a baroque church here too? The mistress of Louis 14th, Louise de la Valiere left her life at court and ended her days in this nunnery attached to the church on the PLACE DE LA PETITE PIERRES that is located on the square around the corner from the Place de La Victoire. What I didn’t know, is that this spot has become very “insider” in Paris with commercial fashion houses doing shoots here (I bumped into 3 of them last year) upon opening my door into the street. So, the secret may have just trickled out; I hope not.
(*A window view from the HOTEL BAUCHEMONT in the 2nd District)
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Palais Royale: Hotels to Remember (Part I)
There are some memorable hotels in the area with a stylish and boho luxe vibe that makes them different from other parts of Paris. Some also have spas, luxe amenities and local bistros as well. For a list of these hotels or my Hotel Recommendations from our partners at FORA Travel Agency - Please Subscribe to the Newsletter or reach out to me (via the link above) for a travel proposal for this area near the Palais Royale/Place de La Victoire/ Rue Monterguile Markets area.
The beautiful Hallway entrance up to the front desk at this quiet hotel just off Rue Monmartre in the 2nd Arrondissement. Just off the Rue ETIENNE MARCEL. This hotel also has a bistro menu and serves brunch.
Walk About the Neighborhood in the 2nd
Galerie Vivienne: This historic “19th century” Mall is typically on everyone’s list and you can shop for books, art prints, fashion and objects in a charming array of shops. The Cafe Vivienne is a great meeting spot and has a easy cafe menu and casual wine list. As a people watching spot, either inside or out, this is a nice spot. Rue de Royale is BUSY at rush hour, so best to go either before or later in evening.
The Petite Peres Square and Basilica of Notre-Dame des Victoires.
The DAMMAN tea shop is located across from the entrance of this church. I can share that the clerks there are both helpful and delighted to show you a variety of teas and tea ‘accoutrements’ to help you reach the heavenly world of curated teas. Address: 6 Pl. des Petits Pères, 75002 Paris, France.
The Place de La Victoire - This unique Plaza has a large statue of Louis XIV on his horse and has an elegant baroque beauty that makes the buildings that surround it one of the most elegant addresses in Paris. I should mention that several French films were also filmed here, and, from up in the apartments that overlook this square*. For Upscale shoppers, there are several boutiques on this square for wedding, evening wear and men’s shops, cashmere sweaters, etc. From this square you can walk in about 10 minutes to the market streets, and some of the other places that I recommend here.
Breakfast On The Go: Bakeries to Visit in the area
Cafe and Bakery on the Square. Le Moulin de la VIERGE. The Cafe and Bakery on Petite Peres Square: A neighborhood haunt and next door is a charming little bakery that serves bread to the cafe next door. Coffee, can be given but next door, the coffee is a bit fancier. (On the level of bakeries in Paris, note, this is like a 7 in the world of bakeries) But don’t worry, the Croissants are fine and so is the bread. I liked the quiche also but fancier level baked goods are better left to my next bakery(s) on my list here.
Bakery Christophe Michalak - This beautifully presented “designer” style bakery is a few euros above in price from other more traditional places, but the presentation, boxes, flavors and combinations are lovely. I bought LEMON MADELINES and they were delicious! This is part of the wave of NOUVELLE CHIC bakeries that take the traditional and turn them into a designer experience. There is several fancy bakery chains in Paris, as this trend is big; ‘American Style’ bakeries are also taking hold in Paris now such as DONUT shops. Yes, Donuts!
STOHERER Bakery - Literally, the oldest bakery in Paris. The dessert they are most famous for is the BABA Rum. The original (and many variations) is a delicious cake with rum flavored creme. The family arrived in Paris in 1730 and worked exclusively for King Louis XVth. The baked goods are at the top of the traditional ladder and the family (and its heirs) still run the bakery. $$$
CAFE ROYALE RESTAURANT When it calls for ULTRA CHIC. The ambiance is perfect for those couples or small groups wishing a memorable evening and setting that is both chic and historic. Pack some extra Euros for this one, it is pricey.
The Fall windows of O CHATEAU wine bar in the 2nd arrondissement near the Museum in the Stock Exchange
O CHATEAU I loved this wine bar! I went back several times because people were very friendly and also happy to speak either French or English. Also, they have a wide range of wines for many tastes and you have only to describe what you are in the mood for, and “Voila” you will be poured something delightful. Relax and Enjoy! $$
Bar A Vin - Frenchies - a local neighborhood place that has charm and even a devoted chef who works on the menu on a weekly basis. Worth a visit and we suggest you simply let the chef walk you through a selection of dishes and wine pairings or just drink your way through a wine flight. $$
The Bistro Vivienne: This charming cafe is located at the front of the Galerie Vivienne and has placement in its favor, don’t order anything difficult, stick to the basics like salad and onion soup and a glass of wine. Coffee, tea, etc. dessert. Museum to Visit while in 2nd Neighborhood. $$
Museum to See:
The Pinault Collection: The Museum in the Stock Exchange created by Francoise Pinault and it a unique re-use of a Paris monument. The sheer beauty of this museum and to walk around the spaces are worth the visit. You can schedule or book a luncheon there but the real treat is the space itself (pictured) Mr. Pinault is a rival Billionaire to Francoise Arnault, both of them are committed to enriching the social and cultural landscape of Paris and the world. Today, as I write this, the YSL men’s summer show just showed in this museum this morning. It was both art and fashion in its presentation and for more on that review, head over to my exclusive fashion blog.
Shopping for French Cooks
A. Simon for ultra fun cooking utensils, baking, supplies and a nice selection of tabletop accessories including china, crystal, and silverware. There is a variety of prices here so you can indulge at the top end or pick up some nice souvenirs for the family who enjoy cooking. I liked the people here. I also met a lovely French lady in the aisles who was helpful in recommending to me the perfect Madeline Pan. (I am obsessed with these lovely cakes).
The Store Window on the Place de la Victoire upscale boutique on the place directly across from the Louis XIV Statue and directly connected to ETIENNE MARCEL shopping district.
SHOPS on the Rue ETIENNE Marcel
Le Petite Bateaux: My Favorite T-Shirt Shop (Perfect for Kids Clothes) and great gifts for newborns and toddlers. Yes, the items are perfectly French and they are not available anymore in the US. So, Stock up on these great quality cotton t-shirts.
SEZANNE BOUTIQUE a short walk to this OUTLET for fashionistas who love the brand that has only recently appeared here in the US. Note: This is not a resale store, but a lower priced outlet store (address in link above). Once arriving, you will find that ALL the French career girls are there, as the prices will beat those on the website and in the store. **(LA people, they have opened in the BRENTWOOD MART) here in California.
REPLAY Sportswear. This is a fun sporty, young and latest news mass market brand that is popular the world over. This two stories of fashion fun is great for women and men to shop the latest jeans, jackets, t’s and accessories. (Note: This link is for a US customer to purchase and free shipping). French Denim, an upscale version of the GAP for fashionable version.
(*Note: This is just a taste of what is in the area - fashion in the 2nd is its own article due to the sheer volume of options)
Editor’s Note: How to Get There:
Metro: Line One and step off at PALAIS ROYALE METRO stop. Exiting the Metro, you will be across the street from the LOUVRE museum and directly across from the MUSEE D’ARTS Decoratifs (Decorative Arts Museum). An elegant cafe is to your immediate left, * look for the tan/creme umbrellas. Walk through park all the way to the opposite end then pass through the gates to the RUE ROYALE.
UBER: From LE PLACE DE LA VICTOIRE into the UBER APP and this gets you right in the center of the action that is walkable from there. I generally took TAXIS or UBERS from this point, as it is well located to cross the bridges to the LEFT BANK.
MOVIE NOTE: * Many scenes were shot in the Palais Royale in the recent PBS series “MARIE ANTOINETTE” you can read my reviews of the series on SUBSTACK.
HISTORICAL NOTES: Originally called the Palais-Cardinal, it was built for Cardinal Richelieu from about 1633 to 1639 by architect Jacques Lemercier. The collonade was added in the 19th century along with the capacity to have shops around the edge of the park. It has been in the hands of both Royal servants, Royalty and played a part in the French Revolution as a gathering place and set the stage for Revolutionary speechmaking. At one point, it was also considered a den of thieves, prostitutes and gamblers. Today, the shops and galleries are at the “Le Top” of Paris fashion and art as its sordid reputation has given it a historical gloss for many fashionable brands.